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Do you have the company name and information for ordering?

I couldn't justify the cost of crimping pliers for leather. My solution was to buy a Sheet Metal Hand Seamer and then clad the jaws with leather. Most Sheet Metal Hand Seamers are sprung. Don't know if that helps but you can get Sheet Metal Hand Seamers from Amazon and most hardware stores.

It depends on the thickness you want and whether you want the puffiness to stiff or soft. You can use anything from leather, to bonded leather if you want a stiffer effect or you can use foam rubber to create a puffy effect.

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They are used to apply pressure to a glued edge, to help improve adhesion prior to stitching. They can also be used to flatten the thread after stitching, instead of using a hammer. They are not an essential item. But they do help to make sure the edges are glued together well.

I usually tape down one edge so it doesn’t move and then use a long heavy ruler to cut parallel strips

Hi James, what might help you is a rotary cutter. Olfa have a good one.

hi james, yes i use a rotary, the thing i find difficult is to cut parralel lines, does that make sense?

For something like the black flap, I was taught a technique when using leather exterior and fabric lining, but the concept is the same. For the wallet I made, I used kraft tex (a paper product but thicker and can be sewn, glued, etc.) cut to the finished size you will be wrapping the leather around, excluding the seam allowance. On the leather, you will cut little notches along the curve, making sure not to cut the notches too far in to the seam allowance or it will show. Apply glue to the leather all the way to the edges, and glue the kraft tex in place. Gently fold the leather over the edges of the kraft tex, excluding the corners, making sure not to bend the kraft tex, or it will mess up your nice straight edge. After all the edges are glued, come back to the corners and the notches will allow the leather to be smoothly formed around the curve. The notches will overlap, and it takes some practice to get it right. After everything is glued in place you can hammer the corners to reduce the thickness a bit. You would repeat with the lining leather piece, and then glue/sew the outside and lining pieces together.

I understand that, I’m relatively new to this myself so I’m not sure I may be able to help. Would a plough gauge solve this for you? I’ve never used one and they are a bit of an investment I think.

On occasion, I've made belts that did not have stitching seen. The only stitching I did was the backing around the buckle and a lot of careful work to place the front of the belt over the backing through the buckle. Most of it was glued up to that point and then worked around to the back. I used a strong solvent based adhesive and Uniters edge paint on the edges and inside the buckle tongue. It's time consuming but it's the look wanted. I also used a fabric tape as a non-stretch reinforcement (I don't know what it is but I got it in Woodhead's, Cape Town) but I've never used anything other than veg-tan as a backing for a belt. I suppose as long as you can get the length required, anything will do but I think consideration ought to be given to the fact that it'll be sliding in and out of and held against fabrics worn by the user. Not sure this helps any, but no one else was answering!

Hi! Being a complete beginner, could you tell me what these would be used for? Thanks!